Tag: Bangkok

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Oh My Giddy Stars

Michelin Guide recently released its 2021 list for Bangkok. I’m not convinced.

The list of Michelin-starred Thai restaurants today and…well…I’d like to be more excited.

Don’t get me wrong. I like food. A lot. And good food too.

But of the 28 restaurants in Thailand receiving Michelin stars, nearly two thirds of them only offer degustation menus.

A degustation menu isn’t the end of the world. But in a world of people with specific dietary requirements this is problematic for a start. 

I have two close family members who are unable to eat certain ingredients for medical reasons (coeliac disease – actual gluten intolerance – is more than a fad, it’s life-endangering) and generally these are people who can work around an à la carte menu. Chefs will often try to accommodate their dietary requirements with their degustation menus, but it’s hardly welcoming.

Then there are people who are vegetarian, or pescatarian, or whatever, by choice. And these are also people who suffer somewhat with degustation menus.

Whether it’s through good fortune or some other act of God – I don’t know – I’m neither of these. I eat everything. Okay, I definitely draw the line at endangered species, (you can GFYS sharks-fin joints) and I’d be happier to eat food grown sustainably – and that’s a serious challenge in Asia. But I count myself as an omnivore.

I could be okay with “sharing” some chef’s “food journey,” but if it excludes my family and friends, that makes it somewhat difficult.

But there’s another issue, and it’s one I feel is overlooked.

A degustation menu is fine for a one-time visitor like tourists. And as a tourist I’ve visited a number of Michelin-star restaurants – too many to remember – and have been happy enough with their degustation menus.

But I live in Bangkok.

How many times am I likely to visit a restaurant to eat the same thing repeatedly? 

The – to my mind insanely – highly rated Gaggan was within walking distance from my home. I used to visit regularly. But then they got rid of the à la carte option. What am I going to do? Go half-a-dozen times a year to eat the same stuff? Nuh uh.

Particularly not after I’d visited enough times to be able to pick the eyes out of the menu. 

So it lost my business. Why would I pay extra for the second-rate stuff between the winners? 

It’s a strange thing to alienate your regular customers, but there you have it. 

Then again, if you get the coveted Michelin star, people will travel to your restaurant, so, hey, regular customers can go screw themselves. Wonder how that’s panning-out in this, our year of COVID restrictions?

Anyway. The arrival of the Michelin guide in Thailand (let’s not even go into how it came to Thailand in the first instance), didn’t improve the fine dining experience for me: it actually made it less good.

So, in the spirit of openness, here are the Michelin star restaurants in Bangkok where as a customer you get to choose what you put in your mouth:

Two-star

Le Normandie: I’ll admit, I’ve never visited. But maybe I will. When I’m in the mood for French fine-dining. Tasting menus and a-la-carte! Vive la choice! Web

One-star

Blue, by Alain Ducasse: A French fine-diner that does both tasting menu options and à la carte. Not cheap! But hey we’re not here for cheap. Of his 74 eponymous restaurants worldwide, I do wonder which kitchen you’re likely to find Alain occupying. That said I’ve had my socks knocked-off by one of them in Paris. Maybe one day I’ll be in the vicinity, and have my mouth right for some haute French fare. At least he’s letting me choose! Web

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain. The French, apparently, believe in liberté when it comes to dining. Jean-Michel Lorain lets you choose between set menus and à la carte. Web

Jai Fai. Street food, well, in an authentic old-town restaurant setting. Led by a photogenic and media-friendly septuagenarian, and as it has a Michelin star it’s booked-out months in advance. I’m sure it’s good. Is it that good? I’ll probably never know.

Khao (Ekkamai). Now we’re talking. Thai food done well. And you can choose your own dishes or from the tasting menus. Win! Web 

Le Du: Four or six course tasting menus, but it does appear you have some choice. I actually do want to visit, but have to convince my better-half. Web

Mathavalai Sorndaeng: A long-established joint that, to be honest, looks a bit like a wedding venue. Never been on my radar, but may be soon.

Nahm. I’ll admit, I haven’t visited since the David Thompson days, and the last time I got some attitude from the wait staff and every dish tasted overwhelmingly of fish sauce. Neither a great nor cheap evening. And disappointing too, seeing as the first couple of visits blew me away with flavor and texture combinations. With a new chef, maybe it’s time for a revisit. Web

Paste. I really like Paste. Obviously it’s not an everyday choice, but it is my go-to for special occasions. And I’ve done both tasting menus and à la carte. Because I have had that option. Web

Saneh Jaan. Okay, I’ve got to get out more. Saneh Jaan is right near my home. Visiting soon, promise. Web 

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. I visited Sra Bua a very long time ago, had the set menu (I don’t remember having a choice) and coming away unimpressed. But seeing as it has an à la carte option I’m willing to have another look. Web

Suan Thip. Pretty riverside setting (okay – it does do functions too) and Thai food à la carte. Win. Web

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Capella Bangkok

Visitors to Bangkok are even more spoiled for high-end accommodation choices with the opening of Capella Bangkok.

High-end hotel openings continue amidst pandemic lockdowns, with Capella Bangkok opening its doors at the beginning of October 2020. In the short term, residents of Thailand can try things out, while visitors for overseas can start planning for borders to reopen…whenever that may be.

Capella is yet another property to add to the colour of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya riverbanks, offering 101 rooms and suites, the smallest of which measures-in at a very spacious 61 square-metres. All rooms offer river views and either a private balcony or a verandah with jacuzzi plunge pool.

The hotel offers four F&B outlets – a riverside outlet focusing on regional Thai cuisine, a European fine-dining outlet headed by Mauro Colagreco of the 3-Michelin-star Mirazur in France offering “contemporary reinterpretations of the traditional recipes and culinary heritage of the French and Italian Riviera,” a patisserie, and a tea lounge.

There is a spa and wellness centre, a 24-hour fitness centre, and a ‘living room’ which is reserved for the use of Capella guests. 

A resort boat shuttles guest to the IconSiam mall and Sathorn Pier, where there’s a BTS Skytrain station as well as connections to other Chao Phraya transport options. While the riverside is seeing a fair amount of gentrification, Capella is just outside that zone, but transport from Sathorn Pier does put those areas in easy reach.

When Thailand reopens, travellers to Bangkok are even more spoiled for choice than ever before. 

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Subdued Songkran

If you were planning to head to Bangkok between April 11 and 14, 2019, to engage in what has become the world’s largest water fight, it may pay to think again.

According to The Bangkok Post “Business operators on Khaosan Road have decided to cancel activities for Songkran this year to allow authorities to prepare the area for the coronation of His Majesty the King.” 

The Post reports that both Khaosan and Silom Roads will be open to Songkran revelers, but that there will be no entertainment planned, and high-pressure water guns and the consumption of alcohol will be banned at the venues. 


You can accuse me of being an old fuddy-duddy, but I’m not convinced this is a bad thing.

Firstly, the origins of Songkran have been somewhat forgotten in these giant water fights. What was once an opportunity for some rather gentle merit-making and paying reverence to ancestors, has just become a free-for-all water fight. You’re going to see any traditional Songkran activities surrounded by tourists in Khaosan or Silom.

Secondly, I can’t quite reconcile the waste involved – plastic waste in the form of all the water pistols (bought for, and thrown away after, the event), freebie plastic pouches to keep possessions dry, and all that wasted water. In the last few years the celebration occurred while the country was enduring its worst drought for decades. 

Then there’s the health issue. Do you know where the water’s come from? Did you swallow any? Do you have insurance? 

And there’s the fact that some revelers take the opportunity to harass women. “Just over half of the women and young girls surveyed complained they had been sexually harrassed during past Thai New Year water festivals, it was revealed at the launch of a “Happy Songkran” safety campaign,” reported The Bangkok Post in 2016, based on a poll of 1,793 people.

And finally, the Songkran holiday is usually associated with an awful number of road fatalities (worse than normal, in any case). In the seven days of Songkran in 2018, 418 people died, and a shocking 3,897 were injured on the roads, according to The Nation.

I understand that a water fight can be fun. And it is quite nice to see kids involved. But for my money, Bangkok’s a much better place every other week of the year.

If you are planning to visit Bangkok, check out my Five Fave hotels in town here

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Fave Five: Bangkok Hotels

Bangkok is one of the world’s great cities. It is a city of ancient temples and rooftop bars, of street food and some of Asia’s best restaurants, of flashy shopping centres and massive traffic jams. Exhilarating and exhausting in equal measure, in Bangkok what you really need is an oasis to escape to at the end of the day. These are our favourites

The Siam Hotel

If you want to get away from the hustle of Bangkok, it is hard to do better than The Siam. It’s hardly in the centre of things, it must be said, but a vintage motor launch is easily the most civilised hotel arrival you’ll get in the city. The suites here are massive – and priced accordingly. We like the Riverview Suites, but there are plenty of choices.

Sundowners on the jetty watching the river traffic is a highlight, though in general the F&B isn’t – maybe it is just that there are so many other good options in town.

Love: Massive suites; Thai art deco style; serenity

Less lovely: F&B is a bit limited; the rooms are so comfortable it is hard to drag yourself away to explore the city; not close to any attractions

Hansar

For city-centre hotels the location doesn’t get much better than Hansar – Rajdamri BTS station is a five-minute walk down the small Soi that Hansar is on, Lumpini Park is just down the main road, and the Central shopping malls are around 15 minutes in the other direction. Yes, they might be a sweaty 15 minutes, but it sure beats being stuck in Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

We like the Luxury Suites for longer stays thanks to the small kitchenette (though they now charge extra for equipping it), but the Urban Suites are an even nicer design and spacious at 71 sq mt.

Love: Location; access to transportation; large rooms; great lap pool; helpful staff

Less lovely: Beds are a bit too soft for this bear

The Sukhothai

The venerable Sukhothai has had a spruce-up recently, and is back to its former glory. Surrounded by lotus ponds, and mostly consisting of low-rise buildings, the Sukhothai feels like a welcome respite from the noise and traffic outside (and Sathorn Road outside is pretty darned unlovely).

Club Rooms offer more contemporary decor and space (at a price), while the others feature darker woods and Thai silk finishes, without being too over-the-top. The standard rooms may feel a little small, however.

Love: Peace and quiet; massive pool

Less Lovely: Not exactly walking distance to much of note; transport is not close either

137 Pillars

For beginners there’s a somewhat confusing choice at 137 Pillars between Suites and Residences. If you want more special treatment, go for the Suites – consider them the club floor. Otherwise all the rooms have the feeling that the building was originally intended as a condominium, which isn’t all bad, because it generally means larger and more functional living spaces.

The star here is the rooftop area, with two infinity pools that offer sweeping views over the Sukhumvit area skyline (the bar-side one on the 27th floor is for all guests, while the 35th floor one pictured above is reserved for Suite guests and open 24 hours). The 27th floor bar is a great place for sundowners, though there is a rather disconcerting glass porthole in the floor that is a definite no-go for vertigo sufferers.

Location-wise you’re a longish walk to the nearest train station (Phrom Phong BTS, which is surrounded by high-end shopping malls), though 137 Pillars does have a London cab on hand to ferry you back and forth.

Love: Rooftop pools; rooftop bar; decent-size rooms; Bangkok Trading Post Bistro & Deli does some pretty nice casual dining; some good dining options nearby

Less Lovely: A fair way down a busy Soi; not much else of note in the immediate vicinity

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

If you’ve ever stayed at a COMO property around the world you know that style is on the agenda, and the property in Bangkok is no exception. Every time I walk into the lobby I feel I need to up my fashion game, though it’s not oppressive.

The secret at the COMO is that the building was once the YMCA, though you’d only guess by the smallish windows and the somewhat convoluted path to the pool. Otherwise it’s COMO style all the way, replete with health food at glow restaurant and one of Bangkok’s best dining experiences at nahm.

Love: Style; smart rooms; dining; competitive pricing

Less Lovely: Busy Sathorn Road location is not pretty

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Bangkok sees a new Marriott

Marriott Hotels, has opened the new Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse. Owned by TCC Land Asset World, the hotel is situated on Surawong Road, close to the up and coming Chinatown district as well as the Silom shopping strip in the centre of town.

“Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse expands Marriott Hotel’s presence in Bangkok and offers experiences to inspire both international and domestic travellers to travel brilliantly,” said Mike Fulkerson, Vice President, Brands & Marketing Asia-Pacific, Marriott International. “Its modern design, dynamic meeting spaces and creative dining venues will attract both international visitors and local residents.”

Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse offers flexible room layouts that feature up to three bedrooms to accommodate guests’ individual needs. Set in a 32-storey modern building, the new-build property has 197 guestrooms and 106 deluxe suites. Featuring a palette of warm greys, neutrals and textured surfaces, the interiors embody the Marriott Modern Design philosophy.

Located between Bangkok’s historic quarter and Central Business District, the hotel offers easy access to famed cultural attractions such as Neilson Hays Library, Bangkokian Museum, Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) and is situated within steps of the up-and-coming Bangrak Creative District, providing guests with access to authentic local experiences. The soon-to-open Mahanakhon Observatory, which provides 360-degree panoramic views and a luxury shopping enclave ICONSIAM, is also within easy reach.

The property offers four dining concepts: The Lobby Lounge is an all-day dining venue that serves international favorites and light, seasonal dishes; Praya Kitchen celebrates Thai cuisine with an elaborate buffet to showcase heritage local fare with a modern twist; Located on the top floor of the hotel, Yào Rooftop Bar offers cocktails and signature bar bites with a Shanghai-inspired terrace with views of the cityscape and the Chao Praya river; At Yào Rooftop Bar Restaurant, guests can enjoy  Cantonese and Shanghainese fare, and tea rituals in modern Chinese-fashioned interiors.

“Leisure and business travelers will enjoy our timeless Thai hospitality right in the heart of Bangkok,” said George Varughese, General Manager, Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse. “Our unique location close to city’s main attractions and within an emerging creative neighbourhood will provide guests with fresh and immersive experiences of Bangkok.”