Spaced Out!

Virgin Galactic’s First Spaceflight on December 13th 2018 © 2018 Virgin Galactic

The travel world is agog: space tourism is about to be a thing.

On July 20th, Amazon-founder Jeff Bezos and three others will embark on an 11-minute flight in a capsule called New Shepard (apparently modeled on Bezos’ head), to about 100km above the Earth’s surface.

One of his fellow passengers paid $28m for the trip, or roughly $42,000 per second. 

Never mind that space tourism was already a thing (more on that later), in a world of ‘influencers’ the demand for a few minutes of selfie-time in space is sure to be in demand. 

Given roughly half of Instagram’s billion or so users are singularly focused on impressing people, space travel is going to be huge. The Earth is too small to contain Instagram’s vast celebration of self-absorption, a world in which having money (and/or enough plastic surgery) is having influence. 

And that’s where space travel comes in – what better way to let everyone know you have money than a selfie with the entire Earth in the background?

Don’t get me wrong: I think it would be awe-inspiring to see the blue planet from space. I understand why for many people this is a lifelong dream.

It was the case for Dennis Tito, an American millionaire, who was is the first space tourist in 2001, paying US$20m to get to the International Space Station (ISS) for seven days. 

Credit where it is due – Tito had not only dreamed of going to space, he had actually worked at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory. Six more space tourists followed in his footsteps – one even went twice. (If you fancy a go, Space Adventures organized all eight of those visits).

For the billionaires involved, today’s space race is probably about being a bit bored with ordering a bigger mega yacht every few years. 

Spending a billion dollars is hard work. You’d have to buy a $50m mansion every year for 20 years just to get through a single billion. If you’re aiming to blow $100b, then it’s a $50m mansion twice a month for 80 years. See what I mean? You’ve got to feel sorry for these chaps (and they are, mostly, chaps).

Most of us work and save money to purchase things that may improve our lives – travel, for example, or a new bicycle (yes, I know in this example I’m talking about people in the rich world). We save, do our homework, and anticipate that trip or that purchase. It has value because it cost something.

Billionaires, on the other hand, have a brain-fart and then get their personal assistant organize a private island somewhere or maybe just buy one. Easy. But valued?

Or maybe they buy that bicycle in every colour because…well, why not? And they’ll all end-up in a storge facility somewhere. Rosebud ring a bell? Seriously, we’d be doing these guys (and the world) a favour if we taxed them properly.

Still, if you have all that money, you probably want to spend it on something. Bezos apparently sells around $1b of Amazon stock a year to fund Blue Origin, his rocket company. At this rate he’ll run out of money in about 187 years, though when you realise he was only worth $12b in 2010, it is difficult to imagine his space venture spending ever catching up with his rising wealth.

Also, you can charge people to get there. By January next year two passengers are forking-out $55m a piece to go to the ISS – this time sitting on top of one of Elon Musk’s SpaceX rockets, though once they get to the Space Station they’ll be put to work. Ten days on the ISS is a bit long just to be snapping selfies.

For the selfie crowd the hot market is likely to be ‘suborbital’ space travel – which is where the purely tourism part of the industry resides. UBS reckons it could be a $20b industry by 2030, though it does assume it will replace some point-to-point travel. The bank estimates $3b of that will be these short-duration joy flights.

The two main players here are Virgin Galactic and Blue Origin. 

Virgin Galactic uses a jet-powered mothership to get to 50,000ft before launching SpaceShipTwo (SpaceShip III is under development) with four or six passengers and two pilots aboard. It then powers itself by rocket to an altitude of around 90km, at which point the rocket is extinguished while still on an upwards trajectory, and passengers can float around the cabin for views of the Earth through 17 windows (all while being filmed in HD by 16 cameras – Insta!) before gliding back to land at the dedicated Spaceport facility in New Mexico.

Virgin Galactic Spaceship Cabin Interior © 2021 Virgin Galactic

Blue Origin utilises a more conventional rocket – albeit a reusable one – with the New Shepard pod on top. Three minutes after launch, and after experiencing up to 3G of acceleration, the rocket and pod separate, and the passengers can unbuckle to experience weightlessness as they pass 100km above the Earth’s surface. That all happens for about three minutes until re-entry, after which the pod parachutes back to land in the desert in West Texas, around 10 minutes after takeoff.

Touchdown! The New Shepard comes back to Earth in Texas. © 2021 Blue Origin

An intriguing newcomer called Space Perspective is offering six-hour flights aboard an eight-person (plus pilot) capsule under a massive balloon to around 30km above sea level.  

It’s a bit of a cheat, because technically, the balloon isn’t going to get you into space – outer space is considered to start at 100km above sea level – but merely high up in the Stratosphere. Still, the views ought to be okay, and the pod has a toilet and a bar. A bar! Plus, your Insta followers are hardly going to know you never really made it to space. 

Apparently all 300 seats for 2024 are sold-out, at $125,000 a pop, or roughly half the cost of the other two. At 30km above the ground, it reaches roughly three times the altitude of a standard commercial jet, or twice as high as the private jets you’re used to flying. It’s even equipped with WiFi, so livestreaming is going to be the go. 

That won’t be annoying. 

In space no one can hear you scream. In the stratosphere my screams would be quite audible.

It won’t be something I ever experience either. It’s not only the money – though that’s absolutely a factor – it’s that even as a bloke who can spend hours staring out an aircraft window, I can’t really see the value. It’s like going to see a view over Bangkok or Barcelona without getting amongst it and seeing how people live. What sort of other holiday could you have for $125,000? Do you imagine it could be better than a few hours in a balloon? I do.

Around 70 years after the original, we are at the brink of a new space race, but this time it’s not governments trying to outdo each other. They don’t have space-race money these days. But billionaires do (refer to tax point, above). And space – or near enough to it – will be Instagrammer gold. Space travel will be another opportunity to engage in untrammeled narcissism, brought to fruition by a bunch of blokes intimately familiar with the concept.

Bubblicious!

WARNING: By the time you get to the end of this post, everything will have changed.

Catch that travel bubble

Is it on, or is it off?

A curious – if understandable – bifurcation has emerged in the travel world. In general the (rich) countries that did poorly at suppressing Covid-19 within their borders are not only vaccinating residents at a faster rate, they’re also opening borders to travel faster than the countries that initially did well.

Worse. The latter, generally in South-East Asia, are seeing cases increase, and are locking down residents and keeping borders shut.

Arguably Singapore has been at the forefront of the idea of trying to open to travellers in the region. Early in the pandemic the tiny island nation state was (unilaterally) open to travellers from other countries with similarly low infection rates – Australia, New Zealand and Vietnam (from memory). Why Thailand wasn’t included at the time is anyone’s guess.

And then there were the actual official ‘travel bubbles’ between Singapore and Hong Kong as well as Australia and New Zealand.

This is not a travel bubble

It seems an eminently sensible solution – if infection rates are similar, then what’s the harm? 

But it’s a pandemic, and no sooner were the bubbles mooted than they popped, thanks to a spike in cases in one or other of the territories. In one case the bubble burst the day before it was due to open between Singapore and Hong Kong. How is a traveller supposed to deal with that level of uncertainty? It has to be said the Aus-NZ one seems resilient enough now, after a shaky start. 

You’re saying no to snow for the foreseeable future

Some of us have a strong desire to get back to travel, but so-called bubbles seem as elusive as catching the real thing.

It’s likely many potential travellers are put off by the flip-flopping. For some, the ability to travel to see family, for instance, is a godsend, and the risks outweigh the rewards. But for people travelling for leisure, that risk-reward calculation is reversed. For these people – the majority of travellers – the will to travel may be outweighed by the risk to that investment in money and time and annual leave.

So where to from here?

Europe is – within limits – starting to open up to the world, particularly to those lucky enough to have been vaccinated

The UK has what looks like a sensible “traffic-light” system for entry, which weighs infection risks in three levels, for travellers coming from or transiting through various countries: For countries on the Red list only returning UK residents are allowed, and must undergo hotel quarantine; travellers from Amber list countries require testing and home quarantine; and travellers from Green list countries require testing prior to travel and after arrival. 

Red means okay for residents only, but you’re heading to quarantine

Unfortunately, in Asia-Pacific the closed border mentality that served to virtually eliminate infections in 2020 remains, even though it isn’t working terrifically well (except in Australia and New Zealand – as it stands today). 

Add this to relatively slow vaccine rollouts everywhere in the region but Singapore, and it’s hard to see borders opening soon. 

In Australia the government sees political advantage in keeping its borders closed – even to citizens – with limited quarantine spaces for arrivals. (Politicians, billionaires and celebrities seem largely exempt, a fact that makes a mockery of Australia’s self-image of egalitarianism.)

Can you afford this view? Then come on down under!

While other countries in the region have not used closed borders so blatantly as a political tool, the failure to recognize that the countries travellers are originating from have different rates of infection means borders in the region are going to stay closed longer. 

If anyone could explain the logic that for the duration of the pandemic I’d have to quarantine both entering Australia and returning to South-East Asia I’d be grateful. Obviously I can’t be more of an infection risk to the same two countries at the same time. I’m not Schrödinger’s cat. The policies of both places are formulated assuming I am.

As long as this mentality remains, if there is any outbreak anywhere in the world, sitting on the beach in Thailand, or having a chicken rice in Singapore, or skiing in New Zealand will remain distant dreams for quite some time yet.

Oh My Giddy Stars

Michelin Guide recently released its 2021 list for Bangkok. I’m not convinced.

The list of Michelin-starred Thai restaurants today and…well…I’d like to be more excited.

Don’t get me wrong. I like food. A lot. And good food too.

But of the 28 restaurants in Thailand receiving Michelin stars, nearly two thirds of them only offer degustation menus.

A degustation menu isn’t the end of the world. But in a world of people with specific dietary requirements this is problematic for a start. 

I have two close family members who are unable to eat certain ingredients for medical reasons (coeliac disease – actual gluten intolerance – is more than a fad, it’s life-endangering) and generally these are people who can work around an à la carte menu. Chefs will often try to accommodate their dietary requirements with their degustation menus, but it’s hardly welcoming.

Then there are people who are vegetarian, or pescatarian, or whatever, by choice. And these are also people who suffer somewhat with degustation menus.

Whether it’s through good fortune or some other act of God – I don’t know – I’m neither of these. I eat everything. Okay, I definitely draw the line at endangered species, (you can GFYS sharks-fin joints) and I’d be happier to eat food grown sustainably – and that’s a serious challenge in Asia. But I count myself as an omnivore.

I could be okay with “sharing” some chef’s “food journey,” but if it excludes my family and friends, that makes it somewhat difficult.

But there’s another issue, and it’s one I feel is overlooked.

A degustation menu is fine for a one-time visitor like tourists. And as a tourist I’ve visited a number of Michelin-star restaurants – too many to remember – and have been happy enough with their degustation menus.

But I live in Bangkok.

How many times am I likely to visit a restaurant to eat the same thing repeatedly? 

The – to my mind insanely – highly rated Gaggan was within walking distance from my home. I used to visit regularly. But then they got rid of the à la carte option. What am I going to do? Go half-a-dozen times a year to eat the same stuff? Nuh uh.

Particularly not after I’d visited enough times to be able to pick the eyes out of the menu. 

So it lost my business. Why would I pay extra for the second-rate stuff between the winners? 

It’s a strange thing to alienate your regular customers, but there you have it. 

Then again, if you get the coveted Michelin star, people will travel to your restaurant, so, hey, regular customers can go screw themselves. Wonder how that’s panning-out in this, our year of COVID restrictions?

Anyway. The arrival of the Michelin guide in Thailand (let’s not even go into how it came to Thailand in the first instance), didn’t improve the fine dining experience for me: it actually made it less good.

So, in the spirit of openness, here are the Michelin star restaurants in Bangkok where as a customer you get to choose what you put in your mouth:

Two-star

Le Normandie: I’ll admit, I’ve never visited. But maybe I will. When I’m in the mood for French fine-dining. Tasting menus and a-la-carte! Vive la choice! Web

One-star

Blue, by Alain Ducasse: A French fine-diner that does both tasting menu options and à la carte. Not cheap! But hey we’re not here for cheap. Of his 74 eponymous restaurants worldwide, I do wonder which kitchen you’re likely to find Alain occupying. That said I’ve had my socks knocked-off by one of them in Paris. Maybe one day I’ll be in the vicinity, and have my mouth right for some haute French fare. At least he’s letting me choose! Web

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain. The French, apparently, believe in liberté when it comes to dining. Jean-Michel Lorain lets you choose between set menus and à la carte. Web

Jai Fai. Street food, well, in an authentic old-town restaurant setting. Led by a photogenic and media-friendly septuagenarian, and as it has a Michelin star it’s booked-out months in advance. I’m sure it’s good. Is it that good? I’ll probably never know.

Khao (Ekkamai). Now we’re talking. Thai food done well. And you can choose your own dishes or from the tasting menus. Win! Web 

Le Du: Four or six course tasting menus, but it does appear you have some choice. I actually do want to visit, but have to convince my better-half. Web

Mathavalai Sorndaeng: A long-established joint that, to be honest, looks a bit like a wedding venue. Never been on my radar, but may be soon.

Nahm. I’ll admit, I haven’t visited since the David Thompson days, and the last time I got some attitude from the wait staff and every dish tasted overwhelmingly of fish sauce. Neither a great nor cheap evening. And disappointing too, seeing as the first couple of visits blew me away with flavor and texture combinations. With a new chef, maybe it’s time for a revisit. Web

Paste. I really like Paste. Obviously it’s not an everyday choice, but it is my go-to for special occasions. And I’ve done both tasting menus and à la carte. Because I have had that option. Web

Saneh Jaan. Okay, I’ve got to get out more. Saneh Jaan is right near my home. Visiting soon, promise. Web 

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. I visited Sra Bua a very long time ago, had the set menu (I don’t remember having a choice) and coming away unimpressed. But seeing as it has an à la carte option I’m willing to have another look. Web

Suan Thip. Pretty riverside setting (okay – it does do functions too) and Thai food à la carte. Win. Web