Author: Tony

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How to avoid travel chaos

Aircraft on the ground with the sun behind an approaching storm, Doha
Not that chaotic

It’s all over the news. 

International travel is bouncing-back after the pandemic shutdowns, but along with the surging demand are stories of bags being lost, flights being cancelled, and particularly in Europe, it’s travel chaos!

There are reasons for this, of course. 

Airlines and airports laid off staff and are struggling to find new workers amid (understandable) concerns about job security and working conditions.  And despite the, err…robust…current price of tickets, many airlines are still reporting losses.

Strong demand for travel to Europe should make it unsurprising that it has been hardest hit.

All that makes sense, and has been explained so often that it will surely become accepted wisdom.

Except I’ve travelled through Europe into Asia and Australia this year, and didn’t lose my luggage, didn’t experience delays or cancellations and generally had a smooth experience.

I could choose to engage in some futile navel-gazing about how lucky I am. 

Or I could offer this counterpoint: The airports and airlines that always treated their customers like crap are worse now because they doubled-down on what made them crap in the first place. These days they can blame their usual utter indifference to the customer experience on all the things mentioned above. 

One particularly well-remunerated airline executive has even taken to blaming his own customers for delays. Another blames people preferring to make money working from home, rather than toiling as baggage handlers. There’s a hint about market forces in there somewhere, if only I could put my finger on it.

Empty Thai Airways business lounge during Covid at Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok (BKK)
Empty airports during the pandemic weren’t that bad

Tips and hints to avoid travel chaos

Okay. I can’t make any guarantees here, but I have a few tips for how to avoid the chaos this holiday season.

If at all possible, avoid crap airports.

I’m sorry, but if you’re London-based, or anywhere in the US whatsoever, this may prove difficult. 

Much of the rest of the world – especially a bunch of allegedly ‘third world’ countries in Asia – has been proving that it is possible to make the passenger experience at airports not terrible for years. 

I have no idea why nobody seems to have noticed this. 

I don’t have a comprehensive list of favourite airports worldwide, because a) I’ve not flown through all the airports in the world, so couldn’t say for sure, and b) they’re airports, and I really don’t go to airports for the fun of it. Anyway, here are a few that have worked well enough for me over the years:

The good:

  • Singapore Changi (SIN) – Wheels-down and into a cab in 20 minutes, including immigration and luggage collection is my record, and that’s pretty spectacular. It’s so spectacular that when it goes wrong, it’s really noticeable. Scanning incoming passengers and their carry-on luggage at the gate is a sometime thing (anecdotally, particularly passengers arriving from Bangkok), and it slows that process down horribly. Sometimes – not often – the immigration queues are woeful. Don’t ask me why.
  • Hong Kong (HKG) – Does everything you want from an airport, (well, it did before the pandemic, anyway) and scores extra points for the brilliant train connection to downtown. I’ve only ever gone in a car once, and that’s because it was a Rolls-Royce. Thanks, Peninsula! 
  • Geneva (GVA) – The sound of cow bells and yodeling ion the train between terminals? Check. Relatively efficient immigration? Check. Geneva also seems to be able to get your bags on the right plane at the right time, even with relatively tight connections. Nice views of the mountains in the distance too. All good.
  • Barcelona (BCN) – Okay, the luggage can be a bit slow, but BCN delivers on most of what you want from an airport. And it’s even relatively close to downtown.
  • Munich (MUC) – the cool Teutonic architecture is matched by the efficiency of the operation.
  • There was some regional airport in France I flew through once and I don’t even remember where it was, but I stopped for lunch and the restaurant was full of locals. If I weren’t so tired after a long trip, I’d have remembered what the airport was, and I’d have looked around before I ordered and gone for the steak tartare like all the locals were eating. A companion ordered it and it was spectacular. Airport food doesn’t have to be awful. Who knew? 
  • As a general rule, smaller is better. There are fewer flights, and therefore fewer options to send your bags elsewhere. Also there’ll be fewer people. And people are the problem here.

The ugly:

  • Any US airport. Come on guys, you invented the aeroplane, went ahead and misspelled it, and then invented the worst airports anywhere to punish people who want to fly. Shocker. If you absolutely must, the smaller regional airports can be not completely awful. Denver (DEN) springs to mind. Still, you’ll probably end-up on an American airline, so the airport may be the least of your worries.
  • Paris Charles de Gaulle (CDG) – I don’t know what’s going on at CDG in this post-pandemic surge, but to be fair I don’t know whether anybody ever knew what was happening there. Certainly nobody working there. Want to lose your luggage? This is the airport for you.
  • London Heathrow (LHR) – Heathrow is an absolute zoo at the best of times. This is not the best of times.
  • Sydney Kingsford Smith (SYD) – Charles Kingsford Smith was an early Australian aviator and was the first pilot to fly across the Pacific. He died in 1935. Sydney airport was named after him because it’s been consistently woeful since then. 
Singapore Airlines wing above the clouds
Smooth flying with Singapore Airlines

If at all possible, avoid crap airlines.

Again, if you’re US-based you may be fresh out of luck, but at least you can get out on foreign carriers. That must offer some relief.

I’m not going to try to be objective here, but here are a few thoughts:

  • Singapore Airlines has a well-deserved reputation for getting things right. I find the frequency of the announcements a bit annoying, and in business class that satay almost always ends up on my shirt. These are minor inconveniences. The lie-flat business seats are the business too (if a bit uncomfortable in the upright position).
  • Swiss is my current go-to for Europe trips. Partially this is because Geneva is a decent hub airport, but I quite like the offering. Not too fussy.
  • Qatar offers all the bells and whistles and a modern fleet, though I’m not a huge fan of transit through Doha.
  • Emirates ups the bling factor even further, but again, I’m not a fan of transit through Dubai either. First class is suite (see what I did there?) if you can afford it.
  • I rather like Finnair, but Helsinki Airport was an absolute zoo last time I flew through. The herringbone seat layout in business is cool once you get used to it, and the Finnish gin tonics are rather nice. Definitely on my list if I’m heading for any Scandi countries, but a bit far from southern Europe for my usual purposes.
  • Air New Zealand does a good job too. I’m sorry about its Lord of the Rings-themed safety video, mainly because it’s inspired a bunch of lame copies (I’m looking at you, Singapore Air). Overall a great offering, if a bit limited in destination options.
  • Vueling, which is based out of Barcelona, is a low-cost carrier and should therefore be avoided like the plague. In the past few years we’ve learned avoiding the plague isn’t a universal habit, however. Also, Vueling could show any number of full-service airlines how not to be completely awful. It would be good if Vueling enforced its own carry-on regulations, but it’s actually a pretty decent airline.
A Swiss International Air Lines plane takes off at Geneva Airport (GVA) with mountains in the background
The hills are alive with the sound of Pratt & Whitneys

Conclusion

I have no doubt that travellers are suffering delays and losing luggage more frequently than usual, and I feel your pain. If you’re planning a trip and want to avoid the chaos there are some basics that potentially limit your chances of experiencing that:

-Avoid travel entirely

-Try the train

-Fly direct where possible

-Avoid crap airports

-Avoid crap airlines

Happy travels!

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Spaced Out!

Virgin Galactic’s First Spaceflight on December 13th 2018 © 2018 Virgin Galactic

The travel world is agog: space tourism is about to be a thing.

On July 20th, Amazon-founder Jeff Bezos and three others will embark on an 11-minute flight in a capsule called New Shepard (apparently modeled on Bezos’ head), to about 100km above the Earth’s surface.

One of his fellow passengers paid $28m for the trip, or roughly $42,000 per second. 

Never mind that space tourism was already a thing (more on that later), in a world of ‘influencers’ the demand for a few minutes of selfie-time in space is sure to be in demand. 

Given roughly half of Instagram’s billion or so users are singularly focused on impressing people, space travel is going to be huge. The Earth is too small to contain Instagram’s vast celebration of self-absorption, a world in which having money (and/or enough plastic surgery) is having influence. 

And that’s where space travel comes in – what better way to let everyone know you have money than a selfie with the entire Earth in the background?

Don’t get me wrong: I think it would be awe-inspiring to see the blue planet from space. I understand why for many people this is a lifelong dream.

It was the case for Dennis Tito, an American millionaire, who was is the first space tourist in 2001, paying US$20m to get to the International Space Station (ISS) for seven days. 

Credit where it is due – Tito had not only dreamed of going to space, he had actually worked at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory. Six more space tourists followed in his footsteps – one even went twice. (If you fancy a go, Space Adventures organized all eight of those visits).

For the billionaires involved, today’s space race is probably about being a bit bored with ordering a bigger mega yacht every few years. 

Spending a billion dollars is hard work. You’d have to buy a $50m mansion every year for 20 years just to get through a single billion. If you’re aiming to blow $100b, then it’s a $50m mansion twice a month for 80 years. See what I mean? You’ve got to feel sorry for these chaps (and they are, mostly, chaps).

Most of us work and save money to purchase things that may improve our lives – travel, for example, or a new bicycle (yes, I know in this example I’m talking about people in the rich world). We save, do our homework, and anticipate that trip or that purchase. It has value because it cost something.

Billionaires, on the other hand, have a brain-fart and then get their personal assistant organize a private island somewhere or maybe just buy one. Easy. But valued?

Or maybe they buy that bicycle in every colour because…well, why not? And they’ll all end-up in a storge facility somewhere. Rosebud ring a bell? Seriously, we’d be doing these guys (and the world) a favour if we taxed them properly.

Still, if you have all that money, you probably want to spend it on something. Bezos apparently sells around $1b of Amazon stock a year to fund Blue Origin, his rocket company. At this rate he’ll run out of money in about 187 years, though when you realise he was only worth $12b in 2010, it is difficult to imagine his space venture spending ever catching up with his rising wealth.

Also, you can charge people to get there. By January next year two passengers are forking-out $55m a piece to go to the ISS – this time sitting on top of one of Elon Musk’s SpaceX rockets, though once they get to the Space Station they’ll be put to work. Ten days on the ISS is a bit long just to be snapping selfies.

For the selfie crowd the hot market is likely to be ‘suborbital’ space travel – which is where the purely tourism part of the industry resides. UBS reckons it could be a $20b industry by 2030, though it does assume it will replace some point-to-point travel. The bank estimates $3b of that will be these short-duration joy flights.

The two main players here are Virgin Galactic and Blue Origin. 

Virgin Galactic uses a jet-powered mothership to get to 50,000ft before launching SpaceShipTwo (SpaceShip III is under development) with four or six passengers and two pilots aboard. It then powers itself by rocket to an altitude of around 90km, at which point the rocket is extinguished while still on an upwards trajectory, and passengers can float around the cabin for views of the Earth through 17 windows (all while being filmed in HD by 16 cameras – Insta!) before gliding back to land at the dedicated Spaceport facility in New Mexico.

Virgin Galactic Spaceship Cabin Interior © 2021 Virgin Galactic

Blue Origin utilises a more conventional rocket – albeit a reusable one – with the New Shepard pod on top. Three minutes after launch, and after experiencing up to 3G of acceleration, the rocket and pod separate, and the passengers can unbuckle to experience weightlessness as they pass 100km above the Earth’s surface. That all happens for about three minutes until re-entry, after which the pod parachutes back to land in the desert in West Texas, around 10 minutes after takeoff.

Touchdown! The New Shepard comes back to Earth in Texas. © 2021 Blue Origin

An intriguing newcomer called Space Perspective is offering six-hour flights aboard an eight-person (plus pilot) capsule under a massive balloon to around 30km above sea level.  

It’s a bit of a cheat, because technically, the balloon isn’t going to get you into space – outer space is considered to start at 100km above sea level – but merely high up in the Stratosphere. Still, the views ought to be okay, and the pod has a toilet and a bar. A bar! Plus, your Insta followers are hardly going to know you never really made it to space. 

Apparently all 300 seats for 2024 are sold-out, at $125,000 a pop, or roughly half the cost of the other two. At 30km above the ground, it reaches roughly three times the altitude of a standard commercial jet, or twice as high as the private jets you’re used to flying. It’s even equipped with WiFi, so livestreaming is going to be the go. 

That won’t be annoying. 

In space no one can hear you scream. In the stratosphere my screams would be quite audible.

It won’t be something I ever experience either. It’s not only the money – though that’s absolutely a factor – it’s that even as a bloke who can spend hours staring out an aircraft window, I can’t really see the value. It’s like going to see a view over Bangkok or Barcelona without getting amongst it and seeing how people live. What sort of other holiday could you have for $125,000? Do you imagine it could be better than a few hours in a balloon? I do.

Around 70 years after the original, we are at the brink of a new space race, but this time it’s not governments trying to outdo each other. They don’t have space-race money these days. But billionaires do (refer to tax point, above). And space – or near enough to it – will be Instagrammer gold. Space travel will be another opportunity to engage in untrammeled narcissism, brought to fruition by a bunch of blokes intimately familiar with the concept.

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Bubblicious!

WARNING: By the time you get to the end of this post, everything will have changed.

Catch that travel bubble

Is it on, or is it off?

A curious – if understandable – bifurcation has emerged in the travel world. In general the (rich) countries that did poorly at suppressing Covid-19 within their borders are not only vaccinating residents at a faster rate, they’re also opening borders to travel faster than the countries that initially did well.

Worse. The latter, generally in South-East Asia, are seeing cases increase, and are locking down residents and keeping borders shut.

Arguably Singapore has been at the forefront of the idea of trying to open to travellers in the region. Early in the pandemic the tiny island nation state was (unilaterally) open to travellers from other countries with similarly low infection rates – Australia, New Zealand and Vietnam (from memory). Why Thailand wasn’t included at the time is anyone’s guess.

And then there were the actual official ‘travel bubbles’ between Singapore and Hong Kong as well as Australia and New Zealand.

This is not a travel bubble

It seems an eminently sensible solution – if infection rates are similar, then what’s the harm? 

But it’s a pandemic, and no sooner were the bubbles mooted than they popped, thanks to a spike in cases in one or other of the territories. In one case the bubble burst the day before it was due to open between Singapore and Hong Kong. How is a traveller supposed to deal with that level of uncertainty? It has to be said the Aus-NZ one seems resilient enough now, after a shaky start. 

You’re saying no to snow for the foreseeable future

Some of us have a strong desire to get back to travel, but so-called bubbles seem as elusive as catching the real thing.

It’s likely many potential travellers are put off by the flip-flopping. For some, the ability to travel to see family, for instance, is a godsend, and the risks outweigh the rewards. But for people travelling for leisure, that risk-reward calculation is reversed. For these people – the majority of travellers – the will to travel may be outweighed by the risk to that investment in money and time and annual leave.

So where to from here?

Europe is – within limits – starting to open up to the world, particularly to those lucky enough to have been vaccinated. 

The UK has what looks like a sensible “traffic-light” system for entry, which weighs infection risks in three levels, for travellers coming from or transiting through various countries: For countries on the Red list only returning UK residents are allowed, and must undergo hotel quarantine; travellers from Amber list countries require testing and home quarantine; and travellers from Green list countries require testing prior to travel and after arrival. 

Red means okay for residents only, but you’re heading to quarantine

Unfortunately, in Asia-Pacific the closed border mentality that served to virtually eliminate infections in 2020 remains, even though it isn’t working terrifically well (except in Australia and New Zealand – as it stands today). 

Add this to relatively slow vaccine rollouts everywhere in the region but Singapore, and it’s hard to see borders opening soon. 

In Australia the government sees political advantage in keeping its borders closed – even to citizens – with limited quarantine spaces for arrivals. (Politicians, billionaires and celebrities seem largely exempt, a fact that makes a mockery of Australia’s self-image of egalitarianism.)

Can you afford this view? Then come on down under!

While other countries in the region have not used closed borders so blatantly as a political tool, the failure to recognize that the countries travellers are originating from have different rates of infection means borders in the region are going to stay closed longer. 

If anyone could explain the logic that for the duration of the pandemic I’d have to quarantine both entering Australia and returning to South-East Asia I’d be grateful. Obviously I can’t be more of an infection risk to the same two countries at the same time. I’m not Schrödinger’s cat. The policies of both places are formulated assuming I am.

As long as this mentality remains, if there is any outbreak anywhere in the world, sitting on the beach in Thailand, or having a chicken rice in Singapore, or skiing in New Zealand will remain distant dreams for quite some time yet.

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Oh My Giddy Stars

Michelin Guide recently released its 2021 list for Bangkok. I’m not convinced.

The list of Michelin-starred Thai restaurants today and…well…I’d like to be more excited.

Don’t get me wrong. I like food. A lot. And good food too.

But of the 28 restaurants in Thailand receiving Michelin stars, nearly two thirds of them only offer degustation menus.

A degustation menu isn’t the end of the world. But in a world of people with specific dietary requirements this is problematic for a start. 

I have two close family members who are unable to eat certain ingredients for medical reasons (coeliac disease – actual gluten intolerance – is more than a fad, it’s life-endangering) and generally these are people who can work around an à la carte menu. Chefs will often try to accommodate their dietary requirements with their degustation menus, but it’s hardly welcoming.

Then there are people who are vegetarian, or pescatarian, or whatever, by choice. And these are also people who suffer somewhat with degustation menus.

Whether it’s through good fortune or some other act of God – I don’t know – I’m neither of these. I eat everything. Okay, I definitely draw the line at endangered species, (you can GFYS sharks-fin joints) and I’d be happier to eat food grown sustainably – and that’s a serious challenge in Asia. But I count myself as an omnivore.

I could be okay with “sharing” some chef’s “food journey,” but if it excludes my family and friends, that makes it somewhat difficult.

But there’s another issue, and it’s one I feel is overlooked.

A degustation menu is fine for a one-time visitor like tourists. And as a tourist I’ve visited a number of Michelin-star restaurants – too many to remember – and have been happy enough with their degustation menus.

But I live in Bangkok.

How many times am I likely to visit a restaurant to eat the same thing repeatedly? 

The – to my mind insanely – highly rated Gaggan was within walking distance from my home. I used to visit regularly. But then they got rid of the à la carte option. What am I going to do? Go half-a-dozen times a year to eat the same stuff? Nuh uh.

Particularly not after I’d visited enough times to be able to pick the eyes out of the menu. 

So it lost my business. Why would I pay extra for the second-rate stuff between the winners? 

It’s a strange thing to alienate your regular customers, but there you have it. 

Then again, if you get the coveted Michelin star, people will travel to your restaurant, so, hey, regular customers can go screw themselves. Wonder how that’s panning-out in this, our year of COVID restrictions?

Anyway. The arrival of the Michelin guide in Thailand (let’s not even go into how it came to Thailand in the first instance), didn’t improve the fine dining experience for me: it actually made it less good.

So, in the spirit of openness, here are the Michelin star restaurants in Bangkok where as a customer you get to choose what you put in your mouth:

Two-star

Le Normandie: I’ll admit, I’ve never visited. But maybe I will. When I’m in the mood for French fine-dining. Tasting menus and a-la-carte! Vive la choice! Web

One-star

Blue, by Alain Ducasse: A French fine-diner that does both tasting menu options and à la carte. Not cheap! But hey we’re not here for cheap. Of his 74 eponymous restaurants worldwide, I do wonder which kitchen you’re likely to find Alain occupying. That said I’ve had my socks knocked-off by one of them in Paris. Maybe one day I’ll be in the vicinity, and have my mouth right for some haute French fare. At least he’s letting me choose! Web

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain. The French, apparently, believe in liberté when it comes to dining. Jean-Michel Lorain lets you choose between set menus and à la carte. Web

Jai Fai. Street food, well, in an authentic old-town restaurant setting. Led by a photogenic and media-friendly septuagenarian, and as it has a Michelin star it’s booked-out months in advance. I’m sure it’s good. Is it that good? I’ll probably never know.

Khao (Ekkamai). Now we’re talking. Thai food done well. And you can choose your own dishes or from the tasting menus. Win! Web 

Le Du: Four or six course tasting menus, but it does appear you have some choice. I actually do want to visit, but have to convince my better-half. Web

Mathavalai Sorndaeng: A long-established joint that, to be honest, looks a bit like a wedding venue. Never been on my radar, but may be soon.

Nahm. I’ll admit, I haven’t visited since the David Thompson days, and the last time I got some attitude from the wait staff and every dish tasted overwhelmingly of fish sauce. Neither a great nor cheap evening. And disappointing too, seeing as the first couple of visits blew me away with flavor and texture combinations. With a new chef, maybe it’s time for a revisit. Web

Paste. I really like Paste. Obviously it’s not an everyday choice, but it is my go-to for special occasions. And I’ve done both tasting menus and à la carte. Because I have had that option. Web

Saneh Jaan. Okay, I’ve got to get out more. Saneh Jaan is right near my home. Visiting soon, promise. Web 

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. I visited Sra Bua a very long time ago, had the set menu (I don’t remember having a choice) and coming away unimpressed. But seeing as it has an à la carte option I’m willing to have another look. Web

Suan Thip. Pretty riverside setting (okay – it does do functions too) and Thai food à la carte. Win. Web

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Capella Bangkok

Visitors to Bangkok are even more spoiled for high-end accommodation choices with the opening of Capella Bangkok.

High-end hotel openings continue amidst pandemic lockdowns, with Capella Bangkok opening its doors at the beginning of October 2020. In the short term, residents of Thailand can try things out, while visitors for overseas can start planning for borders to reopen…whenever that may be.

Capella is yet another property to add to the colour of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya riverbanks, offering 101 rooms and suites, the smallest of which measures-in at a very spacious 61 square-metres. All rooms offer river views and either a private balcony or a verandah with jacuzzi plunge pool.

The hotel offers four F&B outlets – a riverside outlet focusing on regional Thai cuisine, a European fine-dining outlet headed by Mauro Colagreco of the 3-Michelin-star Mirazur in France offering “contemporary reinterpretations of the traditional recipes and culinary heritage of the French and Italian Riviera,” a patisserie, and a tea lounge.

There is a spa and wellness centre, a 24-hour fitness centre, and a ‘living room’ which is reserved for the use of Capella guests. 

A resort boat shuttles guest to the IconSiam mall and Sathorn Pier, where there’s a BTS Skytrain station as well as connections to other Chao Phraya transport options. While the riverside is seeing a fair amount of gentrification, Capella is just outside that zone, but transport from Sathorn Pier does put those areas in easy reach.

When Thailand reopens, travellers to Bangkok are even more spoiled for choice than ever before. 

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One&Only Desaru Coast

The One&Only brand makes its first foray into Asia, on Malaysia’s south-east coast.

Desaru, on Malaysia’s south-eastern coast, is a relatively popular destination for travellers from nearby Singapore for day trips or even weekends, but has never offered much for the luxury traveller, though that is changing.

Opening its doors in October 2020 is the first One&Only resort in Asia ­– One&Only Desaru Coast.

Occupying a 52-hectare site with 1.5 kilometres of beachfront, the One&Only features 42 Junior Suites, two two-bedroom Grand Suites and a four-bedroom residence, Villa One. All villas have private plunge pools, indoor and outdoor living spaces, separate bathrooms and thoughtful Malaysian-inspired design features.

The property also features 50 Private Homes available to own or rent.

The decidedly modern design is expected, given Kerry Hill Architects – a practice that is responsible for a number of other iconic Asian hotels – is also behind the architecture here.

The One&Only Desaru Coast offers three restaurants – catering largely to international tastes – a bar and a beach club, which is also open to the public.

For guests who fancy leaving their villas, the resort is focusing on experiences, such as being guided through the nearby Panti Forest for a morning of birding and listening to the Gibbons’ calls, or ascending trees in the resort’s rainforest, chosen by a renowned arborist, for views over the resort and South China Sea. 

Other activities include cooking classes, cycling, kid’s club, wellness programmes, a range of watersports activities, and a spa. 

The resort is near the Els Club, with two championship level golf courses – a 27-hole Ocean Course and an 18-hole Velley Course – designed by Ernie Els in collaboration with Vijay Singh.

Opening in the middle of a pandemic may seem somewhat inauspicious, though if you’re in Malaysia already, you now have a new high-end resort experience available to you.

Check it out here

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Fave Five: Maldives Resorts

Ah, the Maldives: the gently swaying palms; the crystal water; the blue skies. There’s something about the Maldives that amplifies the colours – the tones of the ocean contrasting with the blue of the sky, the white of the sand and the green of the foliage. Seriously, I suspect people from the Maldives may visit other countries and wonder why everything is in black and white.

You don’t go to the Maldives for a local experience, however. Malé is one of the world’s most densely populated places, and generally other islands are off limits to tourists (though there are a few homestay-type options that I’m yet to try).

I have visited a local island, and it is not a resort experience. But in a sense this takes away the need to explore. The Maldives is the perfect destination to chill out and relax.

So. What are my fave five?

Soneva Fushi

I’ll be honest: Soneva Fushi was my first experience of The Maldives, but I don’t believe that has swayed my judgement here. At the time I was told it was the largest resort island in the country (I’m guessing that’s changed with the weird land reclamation that has happened to create places such as The One & Only, which to my mind created some strange and unnatural beaches).

Bigger is not necessarily better, obviously, but the space here means that the villas can be tucked away amongst the foliage so you never feel on top of your neighbours, as is so often the case.

The activities are well worth a look. We did the Robinson Crusoe Castaway Picnic, in which we were whipped off to a private island (yup, not another soul in sight) with a picnic hamper, and a walkie-talkie in case the solitude was too much. It wasn’t. Experience of a lifetime.

Lovely: Space; ‘barefoot luxury’ concept; great house reef snorkeling

Less lovely: Not cheap, but that applies to everything in the Maldives

COMO Cocoa Island

Don’t let the exteriors of the Dhoni Suites put you off – COMO Cocoa Island is easily one of the top resorts in The Maldives.

The island itself is quite small, so there’s not much walking available, and all the guest rooms are over water. We stayed in a Loft Villa which was magical – loads of living space, decorated in neutral tones that don’t compete with the incredible hues out the windows, and a terrace with steps into the pleasantly sandy lagoon below.

It was such a good room that you wouldn’t leave, except that the restaurant is so good. A usual problem in these resorts is that you are trapped: you can’t go anywhere else for food. Most places do a pretty good job of catering – for a cost – but COMO raises the bar to another level. It’s the only Maldives resort I’ve been to where I didn’t want to leave because I hadn’t tried everything on the menu. Fab.

Lovely: Brilliant F&B – best we’ve had in The Maldives by a long shot; only 33 rooms; spa.

Less Lovely: Dhoni Suites are a bit of a naff ‘room in a fake boat’ concept, though you don’t notice that from the lovely interiors; it’s a tiny little island.

W Maldives

W Hotels don’t always hit the mark for me (perhaps I’m too old), but when they do…

W Maldives offers both on land and over-water villas. I stayed in both, and preferred the Beach Oasis – which as a bonus is the more affordable option. Plenty of internal space, a private beach in front, and some of the best snorkeling on the island right in front of the villa. What’s not to like?

I know the W brand is for younger folk, but the piped-in music on the walkways is unnecessary in my opinion, given you could make do with the sound of lapping waves. And you can’t blame W for their guests, but I did have a moment or two with pushy types at the buffet one night…what can I say? Money doesn’t equal class, apparently.

Anyway. It’s a pretty island, with smart rooms, and a spectacular seaplane arrival.

Lovely: Natural beauty; Spacious rooms

Less lovely: Unnecessary piped musak;

One&Only Reethi Rah

A lot of the resorts in the Maldives are on tiny little baby islands, and while there’s nothing wrong with that, it is also nice to have enough space to ride a bike around. Reethi Rah is just such an island. There are even signposts. The pleasant coolness of the forested interior contrasts with the brightness of the island’s sandy fringes.

It took me a while to twig, however, that the island itself has been partially reclaimed – the giveaway being horseshoe-shaped beaches, which are not a natural feature of the Maldives. It also means sandy, coral-free swimming if that is your thing. Swings and roundabouts.

Again, I stayed in both a Beach Villa and a Water Villa, and found myself gravitating to the Beach Villa, for the space – it’s actually quite massive – and the privacy, though you do pay handsomely for the privilege.

It is the sort of resort that can organize activities, and I had a sensational time snorkeling with manta rays. Unforgettable.

Lovely: Huge villas; activities

Less lovely: Strange reclaimed island; Eye-watering rates.

Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort

‘Cheap and cheerful’ is not a phrase you’re going to use about many resorts in The Maldives. And I’m not about to use it for Anantara’s Dhigu Maldives Resort either, sorry. It is only mildly eye-wateringly expensive, however, so that makes it some sort of value here.

It’s an unusual resort in that is is part of a cluster of islands, two others hosting resorts (both Anantara branded too – Anantara Veli, which has an adults-only policy for those who don’t want to be hearing the pitter-patter of tiny feet, and Naladhu Private Island, which offers only 20 large houses, most of which face a surf-lashed reef). You can opt to visit the other islands, though it is pleasant enough to see them across the aquamarine blue lagoon.

Still, Dhigu has its charms. Being a Thai-owned chain, it’s unsurprising to find the spa is really quite good. And it is one of the rare occasions where I find the Over Water Suites the preferable option, though doing so does push the price up quite substantially.

Lovely: A boat trip from Malé airport makes it an easily-accessed resort by Maldives standards.

Less lovely: Probably not the quietest resort on this list.

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Raffles in the Maldives

Raffles Hotels & Resorts recently announced its first Maldives property.

The 38-villa resort takes the unusual step of offering rooms on land and overwater villas on a separate reef, accessible by boat.

Olivier Larcher, General Manager of Raffles Maldives said, “For couples looking for an unforgettable romantic hideaway, our exceptionally spacious villas and the discreet expertise of the Raffles butler service redefines the resort experience. From intimate dining with our private chef service to snorkelling and diving in the world’s most breath-taking coral reefs, we create a place where guests can enjoy the best of both worlds in a destination known for its stunning surroundings.”


Raffles Maldives Meradhoo is located at the southern end of the Maldives archipelago on the Gaafu Alifu Atoll. The resort is accessible by domestic flight, 55 minutes from Malé International Airport followed by a 15-minute speedboat ride from Kaadedhdhoo Airport.

Fancy a stay? Book it here…

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Subdued Songkran

If you were planning to head to Bangkok between April 11 and 14, 2019, to engage in what has become the world’s largest water fight, it may pay to think again.

According to The Bangkok Post “Business operators on Khaosan Road have decided to cancel activities for Songkran this year to allow authorities to prepare the area for the coronation of His Majesty the King.” 

The Post reports that both Khaosan and Silom Roads will be open to Songkran revelers, but that there will be no entertainment planned, and high-pressure water guns and the consumption of alcohol will be banned at the venues. 


You can accuse me of being an old fuddy-duddy, but I’m not convinced this is a bad thing.

Firstly, the origins of Songkran have been somewhat forgotten in these giant water fights. What was once an opportunity for some rather gentle merit-making and paying reverence to ancestors, has just become a free-for-all water fight. You’re going to see any traditional Songkran activities surrounded by tourists in Khaosan or Silom.

Secondly, I can’t quite reconcile the waste involved – plastic waste in the form of all the water pistols (bought for, and thrown away after, the event), freebie plastic pouches to keep possessions dry, and all that wasted water. In the last few years the celebration occurred while the country was enduring its worst drought for decades. 

Then there’s the health issue. Do you know where the water’s come from? Did you swallow any? Do you have insurance? 

And there’s the fact that some revelers take the opportunity to harass women. “Just over half of the women and young girls surveyed complained they had been sexually harrassed during past Thai New Year water festivals, it was revealed at the launch of a “Happy Songkran” safety campaign,” reported The Bangkok Post in 2016, based on a poll of 1,793 people.

And finally, the Songkran holiday is usually associated with an awful number of road fatalities (worse than normal, in any case). In the seven days of Songkran in 2018, 418 people died, and a shocking 3,897 were injured on the roads, according to The Nation.

I understand that a water fight can be fun. And it is quite nice to see kids involved. But for my money, Bangkok’s a much better place every other week of the year.

If you are planning to visit Bangkok, check out my Five Fave hotels in town here

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Fave Five: Bangkok Hotels

Bangkok is one of the world’s great cities. It is a city of ancient temples and rooftop bars, of street food and some of Asia’s best restaurants, of flashy shopping centres and massive traffic jams. Exhilarating and exhausting in equal measure, in Bangkok what you really need is an oasis to escape to at the end of the day. These are our favourites

The Siam Hotel

If you want to get away from the hustle of Bangkok, it is hard to do better than The Siam. It’s hardly in the centre of things, it must be said, but a vintage motor launch is easily the most civilised hotel arrival you’ll get in the city. The suites here are massive – and priced accordingly. We like the Riverview Suites, but there are plenty of choices.

Sundowners on the jetty watching the river traffic is a highlight, though in general the F&B isn’t – maybe it is just that there are so many other good options in town.

Love: Massive suites; Thai art deco style; serenity

Less lovely: F&B is a bit limited; the rooms are so comfortable it is hard to drag yourself away to explore the city; not close to any attractions

Hansar

For city-centre hotels the location doesn’t get much better than Hansar – Rajdamri BTS station is a five-minute walk down the small Soi that Hansar is on, Lumpini Park is just down the main road, and the Central shopping malls are around 15 minutes in the other direction. Yes, they might be a sweaty 15 minutes, but it sure beats being stuck in Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

We like the Luxury Suites for longer stays thanks to the small kitchenette (though they now charge extra for equipping it), but the Urban Suites are an even nicer design and spacious at 71 sq mt.

Love: Location; access to transportation; large rooms; great lap pool; helpful staff

Less lovely: Beds are a bit too soft for this bear

The Sukhothai

The venerable Sukhothai has had a spruce-up recently, and is back to its former glory. Surrounded by lotus ponds, and mostly consisting of low-rise buildings, the Sukhothai feels like a welcome respite from the noise and traffic outside (and Sathorn Road outside is pretty darned unlovely).

Club Rooms offer more contemporary decor and space (at a price), while the others feature darker woods and Thai silk finishes, without being too over-the-top. The standard rooms may feel a little small, however.

Love: Peace and quiet; massive pool

Less Lovely: Not exactly walking distance to much of note; transport is not close either

137 Pillars

For beginners there’s a somewhat confusing choice at 137 Pillars between Suites and Residences. If you want more special treatment, go for the Suites – consider them the club floor. Otherwise all the rooms have the feeling that the building was originally intended as a condominium, which isn’t all bad, because it generally means larger and more functional living spaces.

The star here is the rooftop area, with two infinity pools that offer sweeping views over the Sukhumvit area skyline (the bar-side one on the 27th floor is for all guests, while the 35th floor one pictured above is reserved for Suite guests and open 24 hours). The 27th floor bar is a great place for sundowners, though there is a rather disconcerting glass porthole in the floor that is a definite no-go for vertigo sufferers.

Location-wise you’re a longish walk to the nearest train station (Phrom Phong BTS, which is surrounded by high-end shopping malls), though 137 Pillars does have a London cab on hand to ferry you back and forth.

Love: Rooftop pools; rooftop bar; decent-size rooms; Bangkok Trading Post Bistro & Deli does some pretty nice casual dining; some good dining options nearby

Less Lovely: A fair way down a busy Soi; not much else of note in the immediate vicinity

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

If you’ve ever stayed at a COMO property around the world you know that style is on the agenda, and the property in Bangkok is no exception. Every time I walk into the lobby I feel I need to up my fashion game, though it’s not oppressive.

The secret at the COMO is that the building was once the YMCA, though you’d only guess by the smallish windows and the somewhat convoluted path to the pool. Otherwise it’s COMO style all the way, replete with health food at glow restaurant and one of Bangkok’s best dining experiences at nahm.

Love: Style; smart rooms; dining; competitive pricing

Less Lovely: Busy Sathorn Road location is not pretty