Bangkok is one of the world’s great cities. It is a city of ancient temples and rooftop bars, of street food and some of Asia’s best restaurants, of flashy shopping centres and massive traffic jams. Exhilarating and exhausting in equal measure, in Bangkok what you really need is an oasis to escape to at the end of the day. These are our favourites
The Siam Hotel
If you want to get away from the hustle of Bangkok, it is hard to do better than The Siam. It’s hardly in the centre of things, it must be said, but a vintage motor launch is easily the most civilised hotel arrival you’ll get in the city. The suites here are massive – and priced accordingly. We like the Riverview Suites, but there are plenty of choices.
Sundowners on the jetty watching the river traffic is a highlight, though in general the F&B isn’t – maybe it is just that there are so many other good options in town.
Love: Massive suites; Thai art deco style; serenity
Less lovely: F&B is a bit limited; the rooms are so comfortable it is hard to drag yourself away to explore the city; not close to any attractions
Hansar
For city-centre hotels the location doesn’t get much better than Hansar – Rajdamri BTS station is a five-minute walk down the small Soi that Hansar is on, Lumpini Park is just down the main road, and the Central shopping malls are around 15 minutes in the other direction. Yes, they might be a sweaty 15 minutes, but it sure beats being stuck in Bangkok’s notorious traffic.
We like the Luxury Suites for longer stays thanks to the small kitchenette (though they now charge extra for equipping it), but the Urban Suites are an even nicer design and spacious at 71 sq mt.
Love: Location; access to transportation; large rooms; great lap pool; helpful staff
Less lovely: Beds are a bit too soft for this bear
The Sukhothai
The venerable Sukhothai has had a spruce-up recently, and is back to its former glory. Surrounded by lotus ponds, and mostly consisting of low-rise buildings, the Sukhothai feels like a welcome respite from the noise and traffic outside (and Sathorn Road outside is pretty darned unlovely).
Club Rooms offer more contemporary decor and space (at a price), while the others feature darker woods and Thai silk finishes, without being too over-the-top. The standard rooms may feel a little small, however.
Love: Peace and quiet; massive pool
Less Lovely: Not exactly walking distance to much of note; transport is not close either
137 Pillars
For beginners there’s a somewhat confusing choice at 137 Pillars between Suites and Residences. If you want more special treatment, go for the Suites – consider them the club floor. Otherwise all the rooms have the feeling that the building was originally intended as a condominium, which isn’t all bad, because it generally means larger and more functional living spaces.
The star here is the rooftop area, with two infinity pools that offer sweeping views over the Sukhumvit area skyline (the bar-side one on the 27th floor is for all guests, while the 35th floor one pictured above is reserved for Suite guests and open 24 hours). The 27th floor bar is a great place for sundowners, though there is a rather disconcerting glass porthole in the floor that is a definite no-go for vertigo sufferers.
Location-wise you’re a longish walk to the nearest train station (Phrom Phong BTS, which is surrounded by high-end shopping malls), though 137 Pillars does have a London cab on hand to ferry you back and forth.
Love: Rooftop pools; rooftop bar; decent-size rooms; Bangkok Trading Post Bistro & Deli does some pretty nice casual dining; some good dining options nearby
Less Lovely: A fair way down a busy Soi; not much else of note in the immediate vicinity
COMO Metropolitan Bangkok
If you’ve ever stayed at a COMO property around the world you know that style is on the agenda, and the property in Bangkok is no exception. Every time I walk into the lobby I feel I need to up my fashion game, though it’s not oppressive.
The secret at the COMO is that the building was once the YMCA, though you’d only guess by the smallish windows and the somewhat convoluted path to the pool. Otherwise it’s COMO style all the way, replete with health food at glow restaurant and one of Bangkok’s best dining experiences at nahm.
Love: Style; smart rooms; dining; competitive pricing
Less Lovely: Busy Sathorn Road location is not pretty